3D Printing · Monoprice Series · MP10 Mini · Part 1

Monoprice MP10 Mini: assembling my new printer

After years on the Maker Select V2, I moved to the compact MP10 Mini: faster, hotter, and easier to level. Part 1 covers unboxing and the full build. Part 2 fires it up and tests it against the V2.

Monoprice MP10 Mini Part 1 Assembly video thumbnail
▶ Watch the overview · 13:40

Editor's note (July 2026): This review is from 2021, and the MP10 Mini is discontinued now. It was a solid step up from the Maker Select V2 at the time. If you are shopping for a beginner printer today, I use and recommend the Creality Ender 3 V3 SE, which has full automatic bed leveling and assembles even faster. See the link at the end.

The short version

The MP10 Mini was a genuine upgrade from the V2 at about $270: the same 200 by 200mm bed, but faster at 100mm/s, a hotter 280 degree C hotend, finer resolution, and assisted leveling. Assembly is two main pieces and felt simpler than the V2, with a much more rigid frame. The catch is the included instructions, which are clear but skip a lot of important steps. This part covers the full build. Part 2 tests it.

A compact, more rigid step up from the Maker Select V2.
The choice

Why I picked the MP10 Mini

When the V2 broke down I went looking for a replacement, and I decided to stay in the Monoprice ecosystem since I knew how they operate. I still had a checklist, though. I had never used the full print bed on any project, so bed size was not a priority, and a smaller bed is easier to level and keep level. Leveling was the big one: I wanted something easier to level, ideally with an auto-leveling feature. I also wanted more speed, since the V2's 70mm/s made some prints feel like they took forever, and a more compact design to fit my limited space. Last was price. I was not ready to sink a thousand dollars into a top-tier machine yet, since I want a new computer first.

Even set on Monoprice, I looked around, and it is striking how many budget printers exist now compared to when I bought the V2. A few models from other makers met my criteria, but in the end I stuck with Monoprice and got their Maker Pro 10 Mini, also just called the MP10. It ticked every box, and at $270 it was a no-brainer to try.

The Monoprice MP10 Mini 3D printer set up on a desk
The MP10 Mini: a more compact printer than the V2, with an all-in-one base.
The numbers

MP10 Mini specifications

The bed is identical to the V2 at 200 by 200 by 180mm (7.87 by 7.87 by 7 inches). It is only a Mini because the full-size MP10's print area is more than twice as tall and a bit wider. Everywhere else it pulls ahead of the V2, as the headline numbers show:

70100Top print speed, mm/s (about 43% faster)
240280Max extruder temp, degrees C
10050Finest layer resolution, microns
Print area200 x 200 x 180 mm (7.87 x 7.87 x 7 in)
Print resolution50 to 300 microns
Print speedUp to 100 mm/s
Max extruder temp280 degrees C (536 degrees F)
Bed levelingAssisted
Supported filamentPLA, ABS, PETG, Nylon, Wood fill, Metal fill
Price at launchAbout $270

This part focuses on assembling the MP10. In part 2 we fire it up and see how good it is out of the box, so subscribe if you do not want to miss that.

Unboxing

What is in the box

It is interesting to compare the two unboxings. The MP10's box is almost half the size of the V2's, thanks to its more compact design. Inside, the printer sits in two main pieces cradled in styrofoam, along with some starter filament, the manual, and a support brochure. Tucked into a pocket in the styrofoam is the accessories box, which holds:

  • A really short power cable and a type-B USB data cable.
  • A 16GB micro-SD card.
  • Some replacement extruder parts.
  • A bag of assorted assembly screws and a bag of assorted Allen keys, plus a wrench.
  • The two pieces that make up the spool holder.
  • A plastic scraper.

Nothing out of the ordinary. The two main pieces are the base and the vertical frame, just like the V2. The big change: there is no separate power-supply-and-control unit. It is all built into the base, which saves a lot of room and makes the printer much easier to move, though as we will see, that layout has some drawbacks. One more piece hides in the cradle, the touchscreen monitor, which we set aside for now.

The build

Assembling the MP10 Mini, step by step

We need to talk about the instructions. They are clear and succinct, but they are missing more than a few steps. Here is the full sequence, including the parts the manual leaves out:

  1. Remove the shipping brace. Not in the instructions: first take off the temporary brace on the bottom of the vertical frame with the 2.5mm Allen key. It protects the gantry during shipping.
  2. Attach the vertical frame to the base with the M5 screws and the 4mm key. Lay the base on its side to slot the frame in. Nothing is secured, so the bed and print head slide freely, so be careful as you tip it over. The V2 zip-tied these in place.
  3. Remove the screw rod. Loosen the two temporary brackets under the bed with the 2.5mm key and remove them fully, or they will interfere with the bed. The rod is greasy, so wear gloves, but it needs that grease to run smoothly.
  4. Loosen the set screw at the top of the screw-rod holder with the 2mm key. Lift the print-head motors slightly for easier access.
  5. Install the screw rod. Slide it down the shaft into the holder and twist until it slots into the bottom cradle. Keep twisting until the gantry motors clear the set screw, then fasten the set screw back down.
  6. Attach the screen. Face it down, plug the ribbon into the notched port on the underside, then use the M4 screws and 2.5mm key on the front frame. The screw mounts slide inside the frame, so aligning them takes patience.
  7. Attach the print head. No screws here: it snaps on magnetically with three strong magnets and two alignment posts. Once seated it does not budge, and it lifts off easily for cleaning the nozzle.
  8. Install the spool holder. Attach its vertical brace to the base's back-left corner with M4 screws and the 2.5mm key. The mounts slide too, so line them up gently, then slot the horizontal piece into the cutouts.
  9. Plug in the cables. Motor wiring is already done. Plug the three main connectors into their uniquely shaped ports on the side of the PSU so they cannot go in wrong. The tight space wants small hands.
  10. Plug in AC power. Another cramped corner of the PSU. With some finesse it slots in. The power cable is oddly short, not even reaching the floor from the tabletop.

The spool holder is very basic. I have a feeling my smooth spool holder mod from the V2 series will help here. In part 2 you will see the MP10's filament feed is a bit of a departure from the V2.

First impressions

How the built printer feels

Assembly done, and it felt more straightforward and simpler than the V2. I am not sure if it truly was, or if my past experience just smoothed it out. Either way, out of the box the MP10 feels more solid than the V2, with much less flex in the vertical frame. That is down to the truss shape of the frame pieces, which gives them inherent strength against flexing, unlike the flatter folded pieces on the V2.

The other thing that caught my eye is the use of rollers to guide the moving parts. There are 13 of these wheels placed to keep motion smooth. I think I prefer this to the V2's gliding setup, where the rails slowly stop gliding if you do not keep the surface clean and the grommets lubed. These wheels are far less likely to stick, and even though there are 13 of them, if one starts acting up it is extremely easy to swap out, unlike the glides.

Monoprice also provides a thorough user manual that covers everything from unpacking and setup to slicer settings and fan configuration. It is worth reading before you print. You can grab the Maker Pro 10 Mini user manual PDF here.

Your questions answered

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the Monoprice MP10 Mini a good upgrade from the Maker Select V2?

Yes. It keeps the same 200 by 200mm bed but adds real improvements: about 43 percent faster printing at 100mm/s, a hotter 280 degree C hotend, finer resolution down to 50 microns, assisted leveling, a magnetic print head, and a noticeably more rigid frame. At around $270 it was an easy step up.

How hard is the MP10 Mini to assemble?

It is two main pieces and felt simpler than the V2. The catch is the included instructions, which are clear but skip several important steps, including removing a shipping brace, greasing the screw rod, and freeing the temporary bed brackets. Follow a full step-by-step and the build is straightforward.

What is the MP10 Mini build volume?

The MP10 Mini has a 200 by 200 by 180mm build volume, which is 7.87 by 7.87 by 7 inches. The bed footprint matches the Maker Select V2. The only real difference from the full-size MP10 is height, since the full MP10 is more than twice as tall.

Does the MP10 Mini have automatic bed leveling?

It has assisted leveling rather than fully automatic leveling. That is easier than the fully manual leveling on the V2. I cover the leveling and the in-print bed adjustments in more detail in part 2, where the printer is actually fired up.

How does the MP10 Mini frame compare to the Maker Select V2?

The MP10 uses a trussed frame that resists flexing far better than the V2's flatter folded metal, so it feels more solid out of the box. It also rides on 13 guide rollers instead of sliding rails, which are less likely to stick and much easier to replace if one wears out.

Up next

What part 2 covers

That is the MP10 Mini assembled and ready. In part 2 I fire it up and dig into the features that pushed me to buy it, like assisted leveling and in-print bed adjustments, then print a few models and compare the results to prints from the V2. This printer became my go-to for the new Blender-to-Cura workflow, and it stood in for the whole Maker Select V2 journey that came before it.

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